I've also attached the table showing the levels in HCFR, from trial D. The gamma curve from C showed my gamma to be below the 2.4 goal, although I'm not sure how to tell by how much from the graph. D produced a slightly less flat curve, with an average of 2.25. A and B produced identical results, showing a nearly flat gamma curve at 2.02. I have displayed test patterns (A) from AVS, stored on my TiVo, measured with HCFR, (B) from AVS, stored on a networked computer and played through the TV's Plex app, measured with HCFR, (C) from AVS, via my laptop with an HDMI connection using your Lightspace software and a floating window and (D) generated by HCFR via Chromecast, measured with HCFR. I used the flashing bars pattern on the AVS HD 709 disc to set the black level (17 and higher flashing). If you have 10-Point RGB balance controls, its better idea to use 21-Point Grayscale patterns, its better for detecting un-align of calibration controls adjustments with displayed xx% patterns.Īlso a good approach is to not perform static pattern real-time (with TV menus active, that can affect your measurements), but to run a complete grayscale sweep and then look your charts and apply at once all the settings per each control you believe that will fix (reduce) the errors, then run a new grayscale sweep and you will see that your errors will be lower now, then repeat-repeat until the results will be good.Īfter the end of grayscale you will move to CMS calibration, after the end of CMS cal, re-check grayscale again.Ĭlick to expand.Thanks for the information. When you will start with 100% White, keep one of the R or G or B at zero position and reduce values from other 2 controls, while to handle your luminance output (nits) you will use the backlight (not the RGB balance controls). Start with 2-Point RGB balance and do 100% White with RGB-Gain and 30% Gray with RGB-Offeset controls, when you will do many back/forth until you have stable readings, you will move to 10-Point RGB balance, after your are ready with grayscale you will move to CMS calibration. When you will find all these, you will do contrast/brightness/color clipping check via patterns and after that you will start to calibrate your grayscale. Look at each % Grey data the meter reports, there is a Y (which shows to you the measured luminance) and the Y target (which show the target luminance), and re-adjust your settings to fix gamma errors also.īefore starting the grayscale adjustments, take a 21-Point Grayscale run measuring all display available gamma presets, then view the reports and choose to work with the one that you see that is measures closer to your target gamma (so you save time from less adjustments which will be required to fix the issues later).ĭo the same test with colorspace preset (taking 4-Point Saturation sweeps.choose the one that has better tracking of REC.709) and do the same with Color Temp preset (taking 21-Point Grayscale.choose the one that has less RGB errors in average, to see which mode is closer to D65). (Color Difference Formula from Recommend to CIE2000) I see that you have both configure your HCFR to not include to the reported dE gamma errors, from HCFR Preferences -> Advanced -> change the Grayscale handling to ''Absolute Y w/gamma'', to include to the dE calculation the gamma errors also. What about using a different gamma as 2.5 or 2.6? No matter what I change I can't get any close to those gamma powers (banding gets visible in the shadows). I was thinking about BT.1886 because most of my videos are to be seen on TV or Internet. Is that normal? I mean the original TV gammas are not even close to any gamma 2.2, 2.4 or BT.1886.Ģ. I can manually customize my TV gamma though using a maximum of 10 points and I get very close to the BT.1886, however sometimes I get banding.ġ. There's also a BT.1886 gamma available, but it is useless. Even the the average gamma is always 1.8 or 2.0. On my TV, I've been playing with "Contrast" and "Brightness" or switching between 2.2 to 2.6 and there's no way to get close to BT.1886 or 2.2, 2.4, etc. I also attached the RGB gamma, the RGB Levels, and the gray scale measurements. the yellow line is actually my TV gamma set to 2.6 (there are also other gamma options as 2.2, 2.4, 2.5, however these are useless. the grey dotted line is the reference / target gamma BT.1886 In the image attached (gamma.jpg), you can see the results: I've been using HCFR to calibrate my Panasonic TV and the results are good, however the gamma is way too off compared to the BT.1886 reference or any gamma reference like 2.2, 2.4, etc.
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